So, I promised you a tutorial on turning darts into princess seams! Here it is. Like I’ve said this is how I did it ( with a lot of help from this book) but that doesn’t mean it’s golden, let me know if it doesn’t make sense or doesn’t work for you! You can read all my other attempts at pattern desgning here, here, here and here, if you are interested
Things you will need:
Your block – mine was made using the tutorial from burdastyle.
This is my front bodice block, I’ve traced it on to new tracing paper so as not to ruin my master copy.
Mark the apex (where the darts meet, and the fullest part of your bust). I then used a ruler to draw a line from the apex to somewhere on the armhole. You can make it go wherever you want, it’s up to you
Carefully cut along the line you’ve just drawn and the nearest line of the dart to the armhole, try to leave a little piece of paper connected to the rest of the tracing paper, but don’t worry if you cut through – you can tape it back on.
Move the cut out section till it meets with the second line of the top dart, i.e. close the dart. This will open it up at the sides.
Cut out the bottom dart and mark where the pieces match up – this will make the paper form the 3d shape, which makes it slightly difficult to mark, but it’s not that hard It’s much easier if the two pieces are still connected.
Use your french curve to smooth out the corners. This means taking some off the smaller pattern piece, and adding some to the larger pattern piece – it’s easy to tape a little bit of pattern paper to it and then shape with the french curve.
Take your back bodice block piece. Draw a line to the armhole, same as before. Mark notches on it. Oooh and also, add the grainline to both pieces (I forgot to show this step on the front bodice, but please make sure you remember it!)
This is how mine turned out:
Hope that helps! It seams to me (geddit?) that princess seams are more flattering than pointy darts so I’m so pleased I’ve got a pattern for it now Let me know if you like yours!